A perfect Magnum, the Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 2008 of Valle dell’Acate
Large-format bottles exercise a certain fascination. The liter and a half Magnum, double in size and capacity compared to a normal bottle of wine, always captures attention with its suggestion of warmth and amplitude. Effectively speaking, the dimension of the bottle substantially influences the aging of the wine. The rapport between the volume of the wine and the lesser quantity of oxygen which filters through the cork, as we all know, is factor for superior quality in the case of a magnum, the aging is slower, and the aromas and flavors of the wine greatly benefit. A self-respecting restaurant of a certain level of prestige should always have a few magnums open.
One of the most surprising wines I have tasted is the Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 2008 of Valle dell’Acate, sampled at the two-star Locanda Don Serafino restaurant of the city of Ragusa. Among the dishes to which it was married was the braised veal breast and toasted sesame with smoked mashed potatoes and marinated mushrooms offered by chef Vincenzo Candiano. The wine was the perfect match, the typical fruitiness of ripe cherries and plums were fused graciously with an elegant spiciness and the subtle notes of vanilla and cacao. The unwavering balance between the soft and structured parts of the wine was a gratifying surprise, as were the tonic yet graceful body, and the interplay between the savory freshness and the round tannins was exceptional. A perfect bottle, symbol of the red sands of Bidini Soprano, a grand cru area of the province of Ragusa, a lovely expression of Sicily’s southeast.